"Pickle Brine and Chile Liqueur Pack a Punch in This Savory Cocktail" - Food & Wine Magazine

By David Heter

David Heter is the tasting room manager at Thinking Tree Spirits, a craft distillery in Eugene, Oregon.

FOOD & WINE'S EDITORIAL GUIDELINES

  Published on September 25, 2023

 Tested by Food & Wine Test Kitchen

Spicy, sweet, salty, and savory, this bold cocktail is surprisingly refreshing. To achieve its depth and complexity, The Lovesick Crocodile features Ancho Reyes, a liqueur made in Mexico from smoky sun-dried ancho chiles which are macerated in cane spirit. The result is a savory, slightly sweet liqueur which has a rich, earthy flavor and a hint of spice. The process of drying the locally grown chiles in the sun helps transform their spicy vegetal notes into flavors and aromas reminiscent of baking spices. To maintain the highest quality, Ancho Reyes slices their peppers by hand, discarding any tough, unusable bits before moving them onto maceration for the liqueur.

This cocktail recipe, though, comes a long way from Mexico. The Lovesick Crocodile was developed by David Heter, tasting room manager at Thinking Tree Spirits, a craft distillery in Eugene, Oregon. Heter suggests using Main Stage Vodka which has a delightful balance of a rich and creamy mouthfeel with a bright, clean finish. Thinking Tree Spirits distills their vodka from non-GMO wheat grown locally in the Pacific Northwest. 

The final ingredient in this simple cocktail might come as a surprise: pickle brine. While olive juice is widely accepted as a key ingredient in an elegant Dirty Martini, pickle brine still evokes overly salty pickleback shots. If you’re a pickle brine skeptic, let this cocktail convince you that it is the perfect addition to help season and balance a drink. The mark of a very good dish is excellent seasoning, and the same goes for cocktails. The salinity in pickle brine helps elevate the spicy and smokey flavors of the Ancho Reyes liqueur without being at all overpowering. Garnish the cocktail with a hefty sprig of mint and a few tiny cornichons skewered through a cocktail pick to add a gorgeous aroma and a bit of extra whimsy. Cheers!

Frequently asked questions 

What is Ancho Reyes?

Ancho Reyes is a Mexican liquor made from sun-dried poblano chiles that are native to Puebla, Mexico. After the chilies are dried, they are referred to as ancho or chile ancho. 

Where can I buy Ancho Reyes?

Ancho Reyes liqueur is available at most liquor stores and readily available online. 

Notes from the Food & Wine Test Kitchen 

The Lovesick Crocodile is an excellent example of why savory cocktails are all over bar menus right now. Savory cocktails come as a welcome respite to a slew of fruity or sweet drinks that have dominated the bar space for decades. Salty, herby, and piquant, this balanced drink is a great gateway to the world of savory cocktails.

Ingredients

1/4 cup (2 ounces) vodka (such as Thinking Tree Main Stage Vodka)

1 1/2 tablespoons (3/4 ounce) Ancho Reyes Original Ancho Chile Liqueur

1 1/2 tablespoons dill pickle juice

Dill sprig and cornichons, for garnish

Directions

Combine vodka, Ancho Reyes liqueur, and dill pickle juice in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Place lid on shaker; shake until mixture is cold, about 10 seconds. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a dill sprig and cornichons.